Do you love big bluegill?
Anybody using, or tried, furled leaders?
Those who are selling them talk them up so much you'd think they're the greatest thing since the invention of the fly rod - or maybe even the evolution of the bluegill :-) Not unnatural - they've got to make a living, after all - but if you've tried or are using them, how good are they in comparison to a standard tapered leader? If you like them, do they also work well on small rods like 2-weights, or is a 2WF line not heavy enough to turn over a furled leader well?
Thinking of getting some, but wanted to get opinions from my number one source of fishing info first :-)
Thanks,
Jonathan
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LOL You know, I've started out using a plastic clamp to hold onto my line at the half way point of the furled-lines:
It's a lot easier to have the two ends running free, to effectively coiled on top of each other, rather than having them held on my a swivel barbel system from all the board's designs. But, of course, this is just my opinion. I've tried the board design as well, but all I can see out of it is an odd mess. I guess I'm not used to the board's designs yet.
If you do the hand rolled method I would suggest either 6 or 8#. When I do my 4# furled I end up with 4 loops of 4# which is a total of 16#. If you do the hand twist you only end up with one loop of whatever you use to do the twist. When you do the twist method you get one step down in the leader. With my furled there is 4 step downs in the 5' of leader. I use a 6# tippet with a loop to loop connection. I start with a 3' tippet and use it until it gets to about 2' and I remove it. Put it in my pocket to dispose of when I get home and tie on another. It takes about 1 to 2 minutes to change tippets and ready to fish again. I don't like to waste time rigging when I am on the water. I wanna fish when I am on the water
I might have some 6 around, don't have any 8. Anyway, when I fish with spinning gear I'm only using 4 pound line, sometimes with a 2 pound leader, so I guess I can get away with 4 pound line in a hand-rolled furled leader :)
Jonathan
I've got two furled leaders. Both are 7', one is mono, the other is fluorocarbon. I have the mono leader on my 5wt, and it works good. I have to add floatant to it when I'm fishing topwater flies. I have the fluoro leader on my 8wt, as I'm not really planning on fishing dry flies with a rig that heavy. Maybe deer hair bass bugs (gotta get back into tying those), but otherwise, Clousers and Wooly Buggers.
I thinking about building a furling board and starting to make my own. I've heard that thread furled leaders are good for smaller dry flies. That would also let me have a cheap source of furled leaders without having to order them.
Several excellent responses above. I use a 5' furled leader that I make myself out of 4# mono and yes I do like it. I do get fewer wind knots and the ones that I get are easily removed. I use them on my 2wt and my 5wt. I tried them on my 7 and 9 wts and did not like them and went back to my 40# butt and a tippet all loop to loop connection. I also tried a furled made with thread and 8# mono. I did not like the thread leader at all. Tried the 8# mono version on my heavier outfits and I saw no advantage so I went back to my cheapie butt and tippet rig. My 2wt leader is going into its 3rd season and I expect it to work OK but the jury is still out on that one.
It does take a lot of line to make them. If I remember correctly I only got 2 5' leaders out of a 100yd spool of 4# mono with a little left over but not enought to make another leader. There are several do-it-yourself sites on the web. I just did a real simple board that is not adjustable. I like them well enough that I would make an adjustable board if I was as picky as some of the FF. I just find something that works and I tend to stick with it until something better happens along. Again, I do like the mono leaders on my light outfits but not my heavy ones. Everyone should try one IMHO to see if it works for them.
I also tried the twisted version of the furled leader and again saw no real advantage but I have heard others indicate they really liked them. Everybody is different I guess.
Thanks ray for the information. I think I will give it a try this year if nothing else maybe I can cut them wind knots down.
The good thing is that unless you really tug on the line to thighten them they are E Z to remove.
I just got done stringing it out and and now for the twist.
Know you can see that the weight off the end of the board has moved. The leader is twisted until it is shortened by about 10% of its total length. A 6ft. leader is 144 inches before twisting. twist until it has been shortened by about 14 inches. Take it off the weighted end and very carefully fold it back on itself making sure that you go around the end pin. Secure the ends. I use a swivel to hook the center of the leader and pull it off the pin. I then slowly let it start turning. Controlling the twist by placing my finger in between the two lines. Letting it twist more at the end of the leader. Once it has twisted all it will, secure the end with the swivel and twist the two base ends to finish it out. Using a crochet hook make a Shorb loop with the two ends. (google shorb loop). Now your leader is done. Just remember, if you try to make these you will break or mess up several before getting something that you will be happy with. I have a book of leader recipes that work well and I'm getting positive feedback from several fellow fly fisherman on how they think they work. Good luck.
Several guys have talked about wind knots. Remember that wind knots are a casting issue not a wind issue. Remember to let your line straighten out fully behind you, until you feel the weight of the fly at the end of the cast before you start your forward motion.
If you don't feel it or have never felt it, ask yourself why?
One thing to remember is that everyone casts differently. If you are happy with your casting, don't listen to those of us who are talking about modifying or changing or improving our casting.
If you want to change the way you cast, you must get out in the yard or on the pond and have casting sessions, without a fly on your line. You are working on casting, not fishing.
Sometimes I like to put a small splitshot on the end of the tippet so the student can feel the weight hit the back end of the cast. Increase the weight, keep the cast short (30 to 40 ft) and then you must watch and coach the student or yourself. Watch the back cast to see that it fully extends and wait till you feel the weight hit the end of the cast. Once you get the hang of it, decrease the weight and or lengthen the cast or both. this is something that I work on every year before I hit the water. I seems to help me. I also encourage all my friends to do the same.
Thats my $0.02
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