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When is the best time to try to set the hook (also what types)?

I've heard a few different theories on when you should try to set the hook. What has proven to you to work the best?

Do you try to set it at the very slightest ripple or movement of the bobber? Do you wait to let them take the bait for a little longer and maybe take the bobber all the way under? Somewhere in between? What about with different lure types?

I guess while we're here too...what size and types of hooks are you using and having the most success (talking with live bait here...mostly waxies and worms)? Success meaning most bites, most hook sets, best at keeping bait from getting stolen, and least swallowed...maybe other things I'm not thinking of? Red, gold, dark? Tiny size 10-12 ice fishing tear drop type jigs for bright attractor or glow? Plain old size 6-8 baitholder or tru-turn hooks?

Thanks guys!

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You should hone the hook to a chisel point as you suggest; that is best. So, yes, hone the point to a two or three sided edge. Aberdeens are traditional and they have a long shank which resists being swallowed. Call them "time proven," if you like.

There is nothing wrong with Tru-Turns - if you can find them in panfish sizes. They are little more than light wire Aberdeens that someone took a pair of needlenose pliers to. Heck you can make your own from Aberdeens, if you like. As for baitholders, I just dont use them in panfish sizes. No reason not too, except they are notorious swallow hooks.

Circle hooks can be swallowed, too; but they are more resistant to it than others. This is because of their large diameter to length ratio. But their claim to fame is this: as the fish turns to move with the bait, fast or slow, the hook point moves towards the corner of the fishes mouth and hooks it there. So between the round dimensions and this corner hooking tendency, they are swallowed less. Some like to think of them as "automatic," and not requiring a traditional hookset. Their downside, at least in my experience, is that they they are often unavailable in panfish sizes and they are made from heavy gauge, forged steel wire. I wouldn't call them delicate by a long shot.

For a decent "cheap" hook hone, I don't think you can go wrong with a 4" mill finish file. They are useful to sharpen circle hooks, to because they are narrow. These will last a lifetime, but you must be keep them free of rust since they are made of carbon steel. So give them a hosing down with WD-40 every so often.

There are also no end of the modern diamond grit hones, with little plastic handles molded on. Look on ebay and you'll see plenty of examples. For ages now, the small Arkansas stones made with a hook sharpening groove has been common.  These latter are a bit fiddly if you ask me, though. And don't drop them. They will break in a minute and they sink like, well.... a stone.

Even a quality nail file will work, in a pinch.

Its a good thing you're here David .You have a lot to offer!

Yeah, I get good case of oral diarrhea going, now and then. LOL

NOT at all you joker!

 

Haha, that sounds totally disgusting.

Besides, you have great ideas...at least they sound great to me.

I'm with you Craig

What about emery boards? I'm sure my wife wouldn't notice if one or two went missing ;-)

I prefer stones or cement walls ,you dont have to pack them  ,just find them.They work! David should appreciate this one!

 

 

 

I have used a smooth rock before to hone a point. It will work. Finding one that will be sized and proportioned right for fishhooks will keep you busy, for sure.

Emery boards are not the right sort of grit. They would work for a bit, yes. But they would wear thin quickly. Plus, they aren't really waterproof, should they be dropped in the drink.

As a back up, pretty good idea.

I've got a hook hone that I picked up at Academy Sports.  It's a three-sided stick-like thing, made of some artificial stone-like material, with a groove on one side for a hook point.  I haven't tried using it on my hooks for panfish, yet.  I typically don't have a problem with them, unless I snag them on a rock.

My previous hook hone was a nice one, also from Academy.  It looked like an ink pen, made from red anodized aluminum, with a vise on one side and a small diamond-impregnated steel on the other.  I lost the diamond steel, so I haven't been able to use it.  That was a good one, especially for the circle hooks I use for catfish.

I buy my panfish hooks at Wally World.  I would get the gold Aberdeen hooks, except Wally World only carries them to size 6 around here.  I use the Eagle Claw bronze Aberdeen cricket hooks, size 8, as that is the smallest thing Wally World carries.  I have seen some size 10 Aberdeen cricket hooks, at BPS and Academy, but I haven't bought them, as I can catch some pretty small Fliers with the size 8 hooks.

I have also seen some Vicious Fishing bronze Aberdeen cricket hooks, size 8, also at Wally World.  If you hold them side-by-side, you can DEFINITELY tell the size difference in the wire used to make the hooks.  The Vicious Fishing was really freaking thick and heavy.  I prefer the Eagle Claws, myself.

The circle hooks I have, which I've already mentioned, are Gamakatsu Octopus Circles in size 8.  I get them at Dick's, which just opened up here in Tulsa a few months ago.  They are not quite as light a guage as the cricket hooks I use, but they are light enough I can skewer one through the eye sockets of a minnow without seriously injuring the minnow.  Since they are an "Octopus" circle, the hook is almost a perfect circle, whereas most "circle" hooks have a longer shape and make the hook look like upside-down "P".

However posted the .pdf for ordering direct from Eagle Claw, thanks.  I knew I could always order stuff, but I prefer to buy locally whenever possible.  I get rather impatient waiting for something to be shipped to me.  I know, it's a personality flaw.  Patience is a virtue!

For hooks, I have the multi pack Aberdine from Wally World that is in the blue plastic circle and clear lid.... I use the longest ones to put my worms on.  I use these for 2 reasons.... 1) It is easier to grab the hook if the fih swallows it with needle nose pliers without shoving the pliers all up in the small mouth of the fish. 2) I hook the worm as to contour to the hook, this allows the fish to take it and still have more chance of being able to use the worm multiple times.  I am just starting in artificial baits wwith panfish and have had minimal luck, but then Im fishing from a bank with minimal weight so I dont get far out and unless the fish runs off with it while Im reeling, I dont know if it is a fish nibbleing at my lure or if it is structure Im hitting on the bottom lol

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