Bluegill Fly Rodders

Comment

Comment by Ray Ditzenberger on November 19, 2014 at 11:49am

I have $80 lines and $8 lines and some in between. Rio, Cortland, Wulff and SA are in my inventory. I have one sinking line and it has never been in the water and all the rest are floating WF and DT. I have a couple of specialty lines. One has a long front taper and I don't really care for it in warm water. I have a new one with a short front taper and a long rear taper. I like it fine but I don't see a lot of difference between it and a regular WF line that has a shortened front taper and it was a lot cheaper. DT's cast just fine for most situations and I don't find a lot of difference from the WF lines except for long casts of over 50'. I guess I am just not good enough to detect the differences between lines. I will say that I love the Wulff line on my 9wt for distance and short casts. I would like to try a 5wt of the same line design to see how it would cast. I am considering a Teeny sink tip to throw streamers. To sum up....for all round fly casting in warm water I would just buy a $20 SA line from WM in either DT or WF. Just in my cheap opinion.

Comment by Leo Nguyen on November 19, 2014 at 11:47am

Fly line technology has greatly improved over the years, especially within the past decade. They're not using the cheapy PVC any more. Rather, the formulation, even for the cheapest fly line (I witnessed a few extrusion companies making the fly lines), utilizing the polymers that match the high specs end. Scientific Angler's, Cortland's, Rio's and Bass Pro Shop product lines are here in the nearby cities. The polymers they're using is similar to, if not the exact match, as the Cortland's 333 and 444, yet, sold by Bass Pro for practically half the price. From what I could evaluate the "secret resin" used by in the proprietary Cortland's product, aside from the rest, the resin higher binder but lower tensile strength, allowing the product to last longer. The rest of the product has a lower binding agent but higher tensile strength at first, but does not last long. All products are made to last up to 10 years average, if you take care of it.

Carl's slick 50 stuff is the highest form of chemical coating and reagent, 303 Aerospace Protectant, recently bought out by/merged with Gold Eagle. The reagent rebind, repair, and reseal the cracks when it dries. The excess layer create a splendid protection against the elements. The result, my suggestion is not to get the surface you've accidental spilled/sprayed wet and walk over it. Bad..bad..mistake.

Comment by Richard Allen Rupp on November 19, 2014 at 11:14am

Many PVC fly lines only last 3-4 years ago best. Airflo make there lines from a different kind of kind of plastics or people Khmer, then have a five year warranty and I have lines that are 7 years old that set and fish well still.

They are towards the top end of any fly line, around $60 or so, but when you average over theines life they are more cost effective inthe long run.

I like the double taper when you Ou need short casts and deli a e presentations, otherwise go wit a standard weight forward.
She m one mentioneda level line: PLEASE try a weight forward, you'll never go back

Comment by dick tabbert on November 19, 2014 at 10:44am

Carl have you tried out your slick 50 yet I think that should work it's plenty slippery.

Comment by David, aka, "McScruff" on November 19, 2014 at 10:42am

Your right, Carl. A silicone dressing of some kind helps it move through the guides.

Comment by Slip Sinker on November 19, 2014 at 10:38am

good tip carl! what dressing do you use?

Comment by carl hendrix on November 19, 2014 at 10:26am

thanks sleepy  that's one line I haven't heard of yet.  got to check it out !!   one other thing I have found ;; is  clean your lines ; couple times a year;; more often if the water your fishing in is real stained; or dirty.  to clean a fly line;; soak it in luke warm water for about 10 minutes;; then rinse.  apply dressing;; your ready to go.  makes a big difference I think.

Comment by David, aka, "McScruff" on November 19, 2014 at 9:58am

I've used em too, and your right - not difficult.
Some will say they are too bulky, and act as an energy-robbing hinge point in the line. I never noticed.
I've used nail knots and they are good, as they don't hinge and are a good bit tidier. They're the classic method.
The knotless connectors are gadgety, another bit of hardware to fiddle with. But they are very nice.

Personally, I like the ease of the loops. The No tie connectors are close seconds.

Comment by Mark Sleeper on November 19, 2014 at 9:43am

I use loop connections it's fast to change out,  and easy to get apart

Comment by David, aka, "McScruff" on November 19, 2014 at 9:38am

Several things here have been well said.
A good quality fly line can be had for 20-40$
Is it the ultimate best? Will it be the envy of the "fly fashion" crowd? No
But it'll work well.
Line protectant/cleaner/lubricant is a good idea, too, especially if you use it. I clean mine with a product made for vinyl and have no problems. There are also dedicated fly line products, and Leo recommends a space age protectant called "303." Line maintenance is the key.
You can repair fly lines if needed, up to a point. Small nicks and cuts should be tended to right away, or they get bigger. Even larger cuts and tears can be fixed.
All this will help the money spent go a long way.
I like LOFRs idea of the No Knot eyelet, too. Attaching leaders is kind of a pain, especially if you use a nail knot. With the eyelet, you get a seamless connection without hassles.
I favor tippet rings. Not directly line related, they also make life easier by facilitating tippet replacement.
Now, I'm just a fly fishing newbie, so this is just my two cents.

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