Do you love big bluegill?
Started by Gary Kamatchus. Last reply by jim cosgrove Dec 13, 2015.
Started by Donald Schmotzer. Last reply by David, aka, "McScruff" Nov 24, 2015.
Started by Donald Schmotzer. Last reply by Bill Dungan Mar 10, 2015.
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we call em bobbers too the tackle companies decided they were floatsif you put a bobber on a fly line its called a strike indicator and cost 5 times as much even tho a heavily weighted nymph and indicator is the same technique as a float and fly.the float and fly is a technique made famous in dale hollow and pickwick for giant smallmouths in the winter using a hair jig and bobber and drifted in the wind.rename rebrand everything old is new
Jim, With all due respect that is not down south speak. A float is what you make with ice cream and A&W. You fish with a bobber, pronounced bah-burr. ;^>
also important to manage your line in the wind,you can miss many fish with slack or a big bow developing in your line.this is basically drift fishing in static water
if it's super windy use a float and jig,the float and fly as it is called down south.if your fishing from shore have the wind in your face.the float and wave action will make the jig dance underneath.let it drift in and repeat.have done real well with this technique.if your in a boat fish the shoreline the wind is blowing into.a lot of bugs plankton and such are getting blown to the shore .fish follow the food chain.the mechanics are not as important as getting the bait in front of the fish where they are feeding
hey David-- WRONG!!! i have 2 old fly rods- i put small trigger spin reels on-- makes for great crappie rods!! the action is- wonderful!!
Bill-- when in doubt-- use a fly rod!!
I've use the bubble before on my ultra light rod fishing rubber spiders. I only fish 2 or 3 feet behind the float the longer it is the worse it casts tends to tangle.
I find a long rod can help quite a bit if you adapt your cast. Cast sidearm; start with the bubble almost against the rod tip, brig the rod back out to the side and let the fly hang down or swing out even further behind before casting. When you cast, release the line before the rod tip makes it all the way in front of you but keep moving the rod sweeping it across in front of you and all the way over to the other side. The line won't clear the guides as easily and this will cost you some distance, but the line will be feeding out from the side and not tangling with the fly during the cast. If you cast straight overhand, both the line feeding out and the trailing fly will be pointed straight back at you and the line will often tangle on the way out. The few feet in distance you lose doing this is worth it.
I use the torpedo bobbers that you have to tie to and my leader is usually 3' - 5'. With a side arm cast, they usually don't splash down too hard, but if you can cast beyond the mark and then pull back through that is best. If you need to place the fly close to shore or other obstruction you cannot beat a fly rod.
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