Vintage Fishing Advice - 75 Years Ago

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Pennsylvania Angler, Vol. 9—No. 1, pg. 17

January, 1940

 

“Don't know if you know that you can catch smallmouth and largemouth bass with night crawlers all day long by just moving along and casting the worm as easily and as far as you can.

After catching the worms and arriving at home, spread them on the floor and pick out only the ones that are uninjured. (Bass do not appear to like a worm that has had the tail broken or bitten off by small fish).

I never place worms in anything but paper torn in small pieces and wet slightly. Then using a small cardboard box, I place the torn paper and worms in it. In my hunting coat pocket they always remain cold - not just cool. If I want to hold them, I still keep them in this container, but put it in a cool place.

 

In fishing crawlers, a nine foot fly rod, fly line with backing, a 10 or 12 foot leader of ten pounds test and a number 8 hook have worked nicely. Do not remain in any one place too long. Keep moving down the shoreline casting (or better call it, “swinging out”) the worm. In this way you will catch more bass and big perch.

 

It is necessary to have a lot of loose line in your hand when a fish strikes. If using a single action reel, let the fish take line from the reel with the clicker off. At the slghtest drag, the fish will often drop the worm and then it is a good plan to bring it in and bait up again.

I have lost a lot of big fish because I could not get the line off an automatic reel fast enough for their run. Hence, to my mind, this type of reel is out for the particular kind of fishing mentioned.

Now carry two reels, automatic and single action, the latter being for worm fishing.

 

We hook the worm just under the skin at the band, the hook point toward the tail. It is advisable to set the hook at the start of the second run, as I think by that time the fish must have turned the worm headfirst and does not usually feel the hook point.*

• (Both bass and bluegill are known to hit and stun their prey once. Then they come in and take it a second time, bass generally taking it from the head. This is what the author refers to here, I believe.)

I have had a bass take all of the fly line, 33 yards and about 100 feet of light backing line and still failed to hook it. Big perch take it out in short, jerky runs but you soon learn to know when the second run starts. Always tighten the line after the first run, then let the fish go about five feet and set the hook.

In this way, bass are often caught in the mouth, not deep down. As a matter of fact, I turn virtually all of my fish loose when taken by this method not wanting  them to be injured seriously. *

* Catch and Release in 1940?!

 

My pal and I fished 98 days last year, usually varying our methods according to the time of day. Generally I started with a plug, a “No. 3200 Plunker,” made by the Creek Chub Bait Company of Garrett, Indiana.

The system followed with this plug is to cast it, then let it lie on the surface counting to 75.

Then tighten the line slowly, jerking the plug just enough to make it "pop"… and let it float again, this time counting 50. At the third count, “pop” it again and count to 25.

Bill starts one way and I the other and we do catch a lot of bass this way, generally in the first two hours of the day.

Then we switch to the fly rod for the rest of the day. We use a small spinner and squirrel tail that I make myself and often catch many bass, crappies and large perch during the day. A No. 8 hook is used. We also take bass on hair frogs, using the same system as that employed with the Plunker.

 Almost forgot to say that I use a good length leader with the plugging outfit, this being of 15 pounds test artificial gut, also a 12 foot leader of artificial gut with the fly rod, never using either leader a second day."

 

Jess Best, Homestead, PA

[Keith Ritter]

Very interesting stuff. Scruff. Thanks

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Thanks, Keith.
Probably half a dozen useful tidbits in there.

[Leo Nguyen]

Keeping this article. Something to try out.

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Yeah Leo. Several things in there to test out. Just the popper method is interesting. Cast, settle, count....

[Leo Nguyen]

This replicate the stalking vs predation feeding period for bait fishes/frogs. Very interesting observation for mimicry. So bizarre to find lost articles of the old days that based so many things on natural surrounding, through genius' eyes.

[jim cosgrove]

was always told to let any topwater sit until the rings are gone then a couple pulls stop again,unless your walking the dog like a zara spook or darter,i do the same with tiny bluegill poppers too.male a little disturbance,let it sit.most hits are when it is not moving.

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

You're right Leo. Most things then were based in observation. We shouldn't think there was NO science in 1940. But they were living a legacy of "what works" only hinted at today.

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Same here Jim. I've often gotten hits right away, upon the lures landing.
But as often the strikes come after the bait has been "observed" by the fishes for a while

[carl hendrix]

try adding a dropper to your popping bug!!  its deadly!!  sometimes I catch 2 at one time!!  a slow falling spider ; works great!! 

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Great advice, Carl.