Fly rod to self teach

[Chris Roberts]

So I don't really know anyone who fly fishes, but I'm tired of waiting to find someone.  I've got the urge to learn.  There unfortunately are tons of rods.  I would like a little information/recommendation for a first timer like myself.  I would be targeting panfish, but there's always the chance at catching bass as well.

I would like a rod/reel setup for a budget, but one that would still be able to last me a few years before I grow out of it.

[klrbaer]

Call me.  309-287-1425.

I'm more than happy to help.  

Tim Baer

[Bill Freuler]

Chris, Greys, built by Hardy is a excellent rod for the money. I think its about $295. I have cast 9.6 and it cast as well as my $700 rods. I am ordering a 10ft. Its their Streamflex. Bill

[Jeff Madre]

I bought a 5 wt Wind River combo from Cabela's and it worked great after I replaced the fly line.  The orange line supplied curled around the rod butt and tip and frustrated me.  A new fly line made it work great.  I've had a lot of fun catching bluegills on it.

[Richard Allen Rupp]

You can call me as well, I have strong opinions after fly fishing for 25 years. 4012860295

[Donald Schmotzer]

 Hey Chris, I wish you lived closer to SC, I would be glad to get you going. As far as fly rods go, the choices today are amazing, (and confusing to a newbe)......I would recommend starting with a rod that is in the 4 to 5 weight class.Lighter rods are more fun, but a little heavier rod makes it easier to "feel" the rod load and unload. A rod in this weight class will work for gills and bass very well. Don't feel like you need a $700 rod, but don't buy a $59 outfit either. The fly line is as important as is the rod. Rods are marked with a weight rating. If it is a 4wt rod then a 4wt line should be used. Usually a 4wt rod will work with a 3, 4, or 5wt line but a 4 wt (in most cases) will  work the best. I recommend buying a "weight-forward" floating fly line. You don't need a $90 line, buy don't buy a $15 line either.(Fly lines usually last for several years).The reel is the least important part of the equation. It has NOTHING to do with the cast. It's major purpose is to store fly line. A simple "clicker" that is made for the rod and line weight will do. There are a bunch of videos on YouTube on learning how to cast. It is much better to practice 15 to 25 minutes a day every day, than to stand out in the yard for 2 hours at a time on a weekend. Work on keeping "SLACK" out of your line at all times when you are casting.....SLACK is your worst enemy. If you have no one to help you, watch a lot of videos and pay close attention how they control the line. Always practice on good low-cut grass with no obstructions any where around you. As for a good rod, Cabela's sells several good rods as does Bass Pro.

A two piece rod will fish just as good as a 4 piece...it just won't break down to as small a length for transporting. Look for a brand name rod in the $90-$150 range and it should last you for years. Once you have gained some experience you will be able to get more casting distance and be much more accurate.  Everyone develops his/her own casting style. A good fly line will run about $45 or so. A good clicker reel should run about the same. Some of the cheap "Wally-World" type combo's are difficult even for experienced fly fisherman to cast. (not what you want to be learning with). Don't be discouraged, and give up. Fly casting is not hard to learn but it does take a "want-to" attitude which is why so many people give it a short try and then quit. If you have any questions, feel free to E-mail me and I will help any way I can...Don in SC

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Whats your budget?

Personally, I would go to Walmart and get the $50 package.

It has a 5 wt. rod, matching floating line and a selection of flies to get you going.

The 5wt/floating line combo is arguably the "all around" weight, and where bass are liable to show up it is a comfort. A lot big names in the biz, Lefty Kreh and Tom Keith for example, recommend it for this very reason. It's what I use, being something of a nimrod myself. I have several of the same style reel (Shakespeare 1094/6), with interchangeable spools and a couple rods. This way I can keep an extra spool with a sinking line, should I want it, and be ready in short order to change to it.

You CAN spend many hundreds of dollars - even thousands - outfitting yourself with rod, reel, line, flies, accessories and so on. Many anglers take special delight in their $1,000 + matched outfits. But you don't need to, and I daresay you shouldn't.

Get something that is immediate, with which you can start right away on. Practice in the yard with de-hooked flies, aiming at hula hoops or other such targets. Don't be afraid to scuff your gear up as you learn, this way. You'll get better fast, and you wont resent having spent the equivalent of a mortgage payment to get started. Then if you like the sport of fly fishing and are so inclined, spend all the money you want.

PS

1. If your leader/line gets in a tangle from a miscast - STOP! Do not try to "cast out" the tangle. Take a deep breath and untangle the thing by hand.

2. Take the time to develop a rhythm (go slow) to your casting, and above all remember this - you are casting the line and not the fly. Let the rod do the work and learn what THE LINE is doing.

[dick tabbert]

I'm probably not the one to ask I know you can get in to a lot of depth and we have the people her to talk to. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents. I know Cabela's sells combos that's how I got started.

[Donald Schmotzer]

  Yeah, Dick I really didn't mean to put down all combo's, there are some pretty good ones out there. I was mainly referring to the $59 cheapies that were handed to me to demonstrate how to cast that were so bad I had a hard time getting 30' with them. I am not against good combos, just the cheap junk I have seen. I guess I just like to pick and choose what I want to put together, but I know that is hard for someone new to the sport......Don

[dick tabbert]

Don I don't think you done anything wrong in my eyes. I'm sorry I didn't read your reply all I looked at was Chris's post and answerd it. As you can see I did say I may not be the person to talk to and by far you are much more advanced as some of the others than I, I've only started a year and a half or two years and don't make it out like I should a have so very much to learn. The only thing I'm good at with the fly rod is wind knots. GOOD FISHIN buddy..

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Okay, a fair point made. I don't really have much experience with expensive fly rods - I buy my stuff off ebay, used.

I have a couple that were fairly nice, in their day. They are in good shape, but 2day we'd probably call them "vintage" and reach for something new.

Don has waaay more experience at this fly rod stuff than me. I should probably defer to him, especially since you plan to grow with your initial outfit. That makes it one of those, "pay now or pay later scenarios."

Now, I don't think the Wal Mart package is utterly useless; it can place a tool in your hand if you have but a meager budget. But the line is likely the weak link as Don suggests. If I could upgrade one thing, I'd opt for a weight forward style line. I use one of these same rods, and I think the beginner would appreciate the more tactile way the line loads the rod for the cast. The line that comes with the Wal MArt package is fairly light, level taper stuff, IMO.

PS - When bluegill fishing, a longer leader is often recommended when up around 5 wt weight forward lines. Here, I mean something like a 9 foot tapered leader, before adding tippet.** This is because these lines in the hands of a new caster tend to come down on the water with a heavy splashdown. Thus, if the leader is too short the distance from line-to-fly is such that the commotion of the line can spook the fish.

The midweight line (and the rod matched to it) is still a good idea when bass might be in the mix. But a noisy, splashy landing can enhance a finicky mood if the fish are already in one. I usually use 9 foot leaders as a general length. Just something to consider, and further confuse the issue.....

** Leader - the line between the main line and the tippet. It acts to bridge the gap between the much heavier main line and the fly, giving the fly a cushioning loop to make it land softly.

Tippet - the short length of linking line between leader and fly. This usually matches the leader tip in diameter, and makes it possible to remove and retie different flies as needed. When you've cut it back to the quick due to fly changes, you just snip off the remainder and replace only the tippet.

These two create two legs of the Line System - 1. Main line, 2. Leader and 3. Tippet.

[pat]

Cabelas has a fly rod outfit for 49 dollars rod reel and line these rods are great for bluegill and crappie Get the lightest weight outfit they have #4 weight or 5 weight PatL

[carl hendrix]

chris;; I guess by now your finding a LOT of guys here that CAN and WILL help!!  I started in the 70;s with a fiberglass from daiwa- a 8 wt from wally world and caught a ton of fish with it!! and still have that rod!!  also have 2 by fenwick in 5 wt. and 2 tfo rods in 3 wt.  best rod to use-- is the one in your hand at the time!!  my personnel choice of casting- is usually a roll cast.  I can make the line turn sideways;; and shoot right under a overhanging limb ; inches off the water.  BUT!! it takes some time to learn that trick!! don't get discouraged !!  you have a ton of help here buddy!!