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I went on you tube looking at different knots, and found one called the 100% knot. I sometimes have trouble seeing my 2 and 4 lb. test when I tie a improved clinch knot, and thought I would try something easier on my eyes. I lost two fish today because of knot failure. I finally just squinted hard, and went back to the improved clinch knot. Has anyone else on here tried this knot?
Walt, on two of my rods that are used for panfish, I have 10 lbs test PowerPro as the mainline. It is a little stiff when it's new, but once you use enough and "break in the line", it becomes very supple.
I don't have any problems with Improved Clinch Knots on braid. I've used that knot on my panfish rigs, all the way to my 12' surf rods strung with 50 lbs test braid for catfish. I can count the numbers of times the braid has failed on both hands, and I'll have a few fingers left over.
I do agree that a person needs to know what knots work with what line.
Walt, I used to use Trilene XL and honestly had good luck with it. I read some good reviews about the Sufix line, but what sold me was their claim that it had virtually no memory, and combined with their "level winding technology", which they touted as resulting in fewer instances of coils jumping off the reel, I decided to try it.
I use 4 lb Sufix Elite in lo-vis green, and I love it. It really has no memory, and is effortless to use.....no instances of loose coils on any of my reels, and it casts great. It is now my line of choice.
In that case, I need to try me some Sufix! Trilene XL doesn't have much memory (XL stands for extra limp for those unaware - Tony I'm sure is aware but for those who aren't), but it does have some, and when that memory flares up it can be annoying, to be sure. How do you think it compares in break strength and knot strength?
Allen, I don't even remember all the reasons I didn't stay long with braided - I just remember I didn't like it. As far as using 10-lb. test, that seems to me overkill for bluegill - I would use 4-lb. if it weren't for the fact that most times when I fish there's a real chance of hooking a two-pound-plus bluegill, and some of the ponds I fish have some heavy cover in them, so I use mostly 6-lb. Though I do have 4-lb. on my shorter rod, which is a micro-light.
I like Trilene XL. Another line I really like is McCoy mean green. I think it comes out of Washington state. It is a super strong, and a very soft line. Last time I bought any, cost about what Trilene does. I have never tried Suffix.
Vince on all my flies I use a LOOP knot finally found the one I use!!!!!!
Now I have some new loop knots to learn!!!!!! As far as seeing the line to ties I use cheaters from the 20 nickle store!!!!!!! :-)
I completely forgotten about that nonslip loop knot. Thanks Greghopper. I will resume using that knot as my quick knot for my dropshot. Used it a while back, but teaching my kids to use that knot, they got frustrated, so, we went back to improved clinch knot.
Thank you Greghopper I think that will be helping me in my ability to tie something besides the improve clinch. Very helpful
Thanks guys for the input. I made two mistakes yesterday..... the first was tying that 100% knot with 4lb. test, and the other was only tying two experimental jigs. I lost them both after just a few casts, and had no other ones like them with me. ow. Those two nice gills have some lip jewlery now.
Here's the problem using ANY knot that ties directly to the eye of the hook...the knot and line has the ability to swivel all around the eye of the hook. This causes less direct hook sets when we do rare back to set the hook, meaning we simply miss many more fish using these eye hitch knots. The regular Snell or any Snell for that matter is attached directly to the shank of the hook allowing you a one plane hook set that is absolutely guaranteed to catch more fish. It's simple physics if you think about the relationship the improved clinch knot or even the Palomar Knot has to the eye of the hook.
If you're a bottom fisherman for BIG Redear and BIG Bluegill, you better try the Snell Knot. If you're a Catfisherman in swift rivers etc, you damn well better be using the Snell Knot.
You got it dead on Troy. Doing dropshots in our waters, we use a stiff improved clinch knot to hold the hook in a certain vector, which is outward from the main leader, using a 2" to 3" extension to present the bait to allow a little play as the fish suck/gulp the bait up. I use the nail knot for the hook as well, which, if you look closely, is a Snell knot in disguise when tying onto the hook. This is why I love to use nail knot. It has no cinching of the line, utilizing the full strength of the line. But, I also use other knots for various application. Nail knot for me is a go to knot for 80% of my application.
Never heard of the "100% Knot." Logic suggests that there can be no such thing.
What I use are the Improved Clinch, the Uniknot and increasingly, the Trilene Knot.
The first two offer something around 80% of total line strength, while the Trilene is rated at 97%.
It's a mixture between an improved clinch knot quick twist with a semi surgeon knot. I tried this one many many times, but it wasn't called as 100% Knot. There wasn't a name for it yet. The quick twist created too many points in the knot that would end in failure during a high tension between both end, as there are too many creases being made while making that knot.
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