CATFISH Limbline - NOT Bluegilling... Part I

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

PART I - Went to the Edisto with Lori today and got a few ideas for limb lines. For those unfamiliar with it, a limb line is a baited hook suspended just beneath the waters surface, but attached to a green tree branch which hangs out OVER the water.

Here is my idea, as foto montage:

The basic apparatus: 6-8 feet of sash cord (#18 woven nylon twine) large swivel, 8" length of #12 insulated copper wire, and ID tag made from duct tape (required by law in SC.

The leaders: #2 snelled bait holder hooks, homemade line clips, styrofoam block for holding the leaders.

The rig, assembled. The clip is a kind of doubled, or "S"-hook. One side into the swivel eye, and the snell loop is passed over the other leg.

It very simple to make - just bend a drapery hook into the shape shown!

The Working End. Take note of the TWO two knots here. The lower one attaches the swivel to the main beam; it's a simple Improved Clinch knot. The upper knot is a two loop slip knot, tied as terminal end to *double* the main beam.... it is actually a 4' DOUBLED line at this point.

This is the "magic" part. Limb lines are mostly set late in the day. The bait is suspended just an inch or two deep at most. They are left overnight, untended, and checked again in the AM.

So along comes Mr. Catfish, Nocturnal Forager. He homes in on the  bait, takes it, and turns to run - and the slip knot SLIDES!

The twisted end of the wire rig is shown here with it's large eye loop. The loop facilitates the line slipping, but halts it when the knot gets to the eye. The slip knot itself is only taut enough to hold the bait in place and gives under the pull of a fish. This doubles the lines length and the hooked fish can go back into the seclusion of the water.

If this didn't happen, the fish would thrash around at the surface on a tight line. This would wear it out or attract attention. This way, the fish is kept hale and strong, and we thwart most line poachers and alligators!   Cont'd....

Part II, Limb Line.

Here is how the rig looks, complete with poly foam "bait."

It's ready to catch fish:

The insulated wire is left long on purpose: it is used to attach the rig to your selected branch. Loop it around the branch and back over itself, making a very strong connection. Later, it is very easy to release and take off the limb. I could not pull the one seen here off the branch, even with the branch held beneath my feet!

The ID tag is incorporated into the rig so you don't need a separate one. I used duct tape because it is strong, weatherproof and discrete.

Cost for one rig:

Cord - from the salvage stash .... $0.00

Swivel - 12/$1.26 at Walmart .... $ 0.10

Snelled hook - from my fishing stash ..... we'll call it $0.10

Clip - 25/$0.88 at Goodwill .... $0.04

Wire - from the salvage stash .... $0.00

Duct tape - You're kidding, right? We'll call it $0.01

Total..... $0.25

I've salvaged items here and saved some money; it's my nature to re-purpose stuff. But you get the idea; these are low cost.

The hook clip is crucial. These make it safer to run the rig, since you attach the baited hook separately and only at the very end. I'll be using a kayak this season and this will be a great improvement. Try tying lines in branches, juggling open hooks and bait, all while balancing in a kayak, paddling, holding on to branches, fending off snakes....well, you get the idea.

You can also prebait the hooks, if you are using dough baits, shrimp, soap, punch baits, livers.... all can be pre-hooked and kept ready for clipping on. And when you catch a fish - you don't have to fool with unhooking it. Just take the clip off, leader, fish and all! Then remove the line from the branch and move on.

You can get your hook back later when you process the fish.

Note: Most states have specific guidelines for set hooking methods (trotlines and jugging are included) so check that out first where you live. Usually, limb lines are allowed only at night and there are limits as to how many you can run. Also, it is normal that you cannot possess game fish or equipment to catch them with, when you're set lining. So double check if you wanna try it.

Tight Lines and Bouncing Branches!

[Tony Livingston]

I look forward to your updates with this setup David!

[jim cosgrove]

David always heard about these ,you have to tag them here also.like running a trap line.been to reelfoot lake and they use something they call a yo-yo rig they attach to the trees in the same manner..we used to trot line the kankakee river with my dad and grampa.my son uses those round tip ups that sit in the ice hole they are lined with styrofoam so they float and the flag pops up when a fish hits.they are legal in open water water here if you tag it like your rig and tend it like jugs.let us know how it works out.and the best bait for flatheads in illinois supposedly is bluegills

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Thanks, Tony. This is really just a compilation of ideas Ive seen here and there. I sort of pulled them all together in one rig. Gonna go Thurs/Fri and see how it works. I'm already thinking of a change I may make before then.

I can only run two of these without a state issued permit. With the permit, I can run as many as 50, but the permits are only good for one year. South Carolina does something weird, in that they renew their outdoors licenses in June. SO.... if I get a permit now, it will expire in June.

I'm just gonna tinker with these two, for now.

[Allen Morgan]

I don't know about those pre-tied snelled hooks.  That mono isn't that stout.

I haven't run any limblines, but I will run jugs every now and out of my kayak.  My knots are a little simpler.  For the terminal end, I double the line, then tie an overhand knot with the doubled line, leaving the looped part as the tag end.  You can slide that loop through the eye of a swivel, continue feeding the loop, and pass the loop over the opposite end of the swivel (kind of like a palomar knot) and pull tight.  The line will tighten up, and cinch around the eye of the swivel.

For hooks, I've been using the same line, about 6" long, tied into a loop, and threaded through the eye of a hook in the same fashion as the swivel.  Then, I pass the other end of the loop through the open end of the swivel, and pass the hook through that end, then pull tight.

Of course, this isn't easy to remove a hook from the line.  I'm thinking about getting some Dacron, instead of the twine I've been using, for the hooks.  Easier to remove and to thread through some of the hooks I'm using.

Attachment to a tree limb is the same way.  Tie a BIG loop, wrap the loop around a limber branch, and feed the line back through the loop, then pull tight.  It will form a Lark's Head Knot.  Just remember to tie this above a fork in the branch, so the fish can't strip the line off the limb.

Here in OK, we are allowed to use gamefish for bait, as long as they are caught by legal methods (hook and line), and you can't possess more than your daily limit of the gamefish to use as bait.  Although, sunnies are ideal, as are small carp, if you're after Flatheads.  Channels, well, the sky's the limit for bait.

Some of my favorite paddling places are chock full of limblines, trotline, and abandoned juglines.

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Thanks for the shout out, Allen! I've seen most of the usual limb line techniques, and used a few myself long ago. The knots you mention the line... all that stuff is fine. What I'm doing is looking for ways to improve on the stuff that was always a bother. you might call me a Leo Nguyen wannabe! LOL

I agree the hooks and leaders are not stout; they are just some stuff I had hanging around. Where I will use them, I have NEVER seen nor heard of a catfish more than a few pounds. 125 miles down river, that changes. But here in the headwaters where I fish, they run small. I will use something bigger soon - I'm waiting for some circle hooks, 3/0's. Those will be tied to the clips directly, sans loops and with stronger leaders. 

Remember, this is all using stuff I had on hand.

I've also ordered line like you describe, braided nylon to replace the sash cord. In time I will switch over to such things, which are already known to work - circle hooks, braided nylon, etc. In the end, only a few of my peculiar twists will remain. Right now, I'm experimenting.

One thing that I'm looking for is how to give the limb tie off a varying length. I want to be able to shorten or lengthen the tie off as needed on site, while keeping the slip feature of the main beam.

Interestingly, on THIS river I can use bluegill as bait, along with any other live fish and with the same restrictions as you. I'll probably use some sort of channel cat oriented bait initially. Thanks again for your input!

[Allen Morgan]

I get my line at Wally World.  They have several different colors, I believe of #18 nylon twine, and they even have some heavier stuff.  Of course, in your neck of the woods, they might not have that.  Try a hardware store; I think it's the same diameter/strength as what's used for Mason's twine.

If you have a BPS nearby, they carry Dacron.  I just saw some there the last time I was at my local store.  Heck, I FOUND about 50' of Dacron a couple years ago, and saved it.  I need to bust it out and start re-doing some of my jugs.

How big is the river that you're fishing?  Average depth of runs, average depth of holes, etc?  Any of the holes have good snags/wood cover?  Any major dams blocking passage from downstream to your area?

It might behoove you to go ahead and make a heavy-duty line, and try some live bait, just to see if any flatheads are around.  I'm not sure what your water temperature is, but if it's over 45 degrees F, the Flats ought to be coming out of winter dormancy and starting to search for food.

Maybe instead of varying the length of your line, try this:  Make several attachment points in your line, just like I do for tying my end loops.  Double the line, tie an overhand knot, and leave the loop hanging.  Repeat, a few inches below the first, until you have enough of these attachment points (think like a trotline) that span a couple feet.  Then, when you find a likely-looking limb, tie off, and attach the swivel to whichever attachment point is just below the water level.  If you want, I can make a segment, take a pic, and post it.  It might be tomorrow before I can get to that, though; I've got to get to bed soon, as I have to go to work early this week.

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Thanks Allen,

WalMart does not carry anything. They used ot have it, but the woman who works there says they discontinued it. They DO carry masons, twine but it is not rated for but a few pounds breaking strain. It is also bright white and pink! I have ordered some dark green, specifically made for the purpose. It has a breaking strength of 125 lbs.

I DO have a lot of old Dacron line from reels Ive refurbished. I may use that for hook leaders. No BPS nearby, sorry to say.

The South Fork of the Edisto River is more of a stream - 20 feet wide in some places, 80 feet in others. For the most part it is on the small end.  Average depth of runs, average depth of holes, etc?  The average depth of the river is no more than 10 feet according to the markers Ive seen. Tois means the holes, cuts and so on cannot be much more. There is a lot of snag and woody cover, as it is essentially ALL snag and cover. In my neck of the woods it is more swamp than river. There are also no dams: The Edisto and its tributaries is the last and only blackwater river in America which remains in its natural, uncontrolled state.

It so happens that the Edisto is one of the rivers in SC where live bait on set lines is allowed. This includes bluegill. The catch is you must use a hook 1 3/16" wide at the gap; a huge hook for sure! This is primarily for the lower reaches which are wide and slow  - and might harbor some large flatties. Up here, well,  not so much. Im thinking live caught minnows, hooked through both lips - this way they die on the hook and cant be called "live." The few people I know who have set lined this area just say to use chicken livers.

I like this idea:

"Maybe instead of varying the length of your line, try this:  Make several attachment points in your line, just like I do for tying my end loops.  Double the line, tie an overhand knot, and leave the loop hanging.  Repeat, a few inches below the first, until you have enough of these attachment points (think like a trotline) that span a couple feet.  Then, when you find a likely-looking limb, tie off, and attach the swivel to whichever attachment point is just below the water level.  If you want, I can make a segment, take a pic, and post it.  It might be tomorrow before I can get to that, though; I've got to get to bed soon, as I have to go to work early this week."

WalMart does not carry anything. They used ot have it, but the woman who works there says they discontinued it. They DO carry masons, twine but it is not rated for but a few pounds breaking strain. It is also bright white and pink! I have ordered some dark green, specifically made for the purpose. It has a breaking strength of 125 lbs.

I DO have a lot of old Dacron line from reels Ive refurbished. I may use that for hook leaders. No BPS nearby, sorry to say.

The South Fork of the Edisto River is more of a stream - 20 feet wide in some places, 80 feet in others. For the most part it is on the small end.  Average depth of runs, average depth of holes, etc?  The average depth of the river is no more than 10 feet according to the markers Ive seen. Tois means the holes, cuts and so on cannot be much more. There is a lot of snag and woody cover, as it is essentially ALL snag and cover. In my neck of the woods it is more swamp than river. There are also no dams: The Edisto and its tributaries is the last and only blackwater river in America which remains in its natural, uncontrolled state.

It so happens that the Edisto is one of the rivers in SC where live bait on set lines is allowed. This includes bluegill. The catch is you must use a hook 1 3/16" wide at the gap; a huge hook for sure! This is primarily for the lower reaches which are wide and slow  - and might harbor some large flatties. Up here, well,  not so much. Im thinking live caught minnows, hooked through both lips - this way they die on the hook and cant be called "live." The few people I know who have set lined this area just say to use chicken livers.

I like this idea:

"Maybe instead of varying the length of your line, try this:  Make several attachment points in your line, just like I do for tying my end loops.  Double the line, tie an overhand knot, and leave the loop hanging.  Repeat, a few inches below the first, until you have enough of these attachment points (think like a trotline) that span a couple feet.  Then, when you find a likely-looking limb, tie off, and attach the swivel to whichever attachment point is just below the water level.  If you want, I can make a segment, take a pic, and post it.  It might be tomorrow before I can get to that, though; I've got to get to bed soon, as I have to go to work early this week."

[Allen Morgan]

This is what I'm thinking of:

[IMG]http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/6488/2012limblinemultipleatt.jpg[/IMG]

Maybe not quite so close together.  Say, a 2 - 3 foot section of your line done up like this, so you can just attach a swivel at the depth you want, then your hook with bait.

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Hmmmmm..... that could work!

[Greg McWilliams]

David, One thing as you are pulling into your line look up for resting snakes!!!!!!!! When they fall into the boat it can be a real damper on the outing!!!!! Trust me I got a really good FEELING about this one!!!!!!!

[David, aka, "McScruff"]

Thanks, Greg!

I spent years fishing in Florida, which I’ve mentioned from time to time here at BBG.

That collective experience taught me to always knock a branch before grabbing hold. In other discussions, you may have noted my affection for boat poles - what some people more commonly (and in error) refer to as “boat hooks.” Well, one of the uses I’ve accounted for with these is to “fend off snakes.”

In other words, using the pole  to “shake and rattle” tree branches as one approaches. This was common practice down in Florida while canoeing. Whether you intended to grab hold of the branch or were merely passing beneath it, when it over hung your passage - you gave it a rap as you approached!

More than once I’ve seen snakes tumble out of the branch when doing this – into the water, and not the boat!

I do thank you for your concern however. That is bound to be some good juju.

[Allen Morgan]

Learn something new every day.  I never thought about snakes in the trees above me while I'm paddling my kayak.  Of course, I usually stay away from overhanging stuff anyways.  In previous years, my rod storage was vertical, and when you're using an 8' catfish pole, you can't get under low-hanging stuff with one of those.  Now, I've got some horizontal rod storage for my kayak; and I've been exploring under some low-hanging stuff.

David, do you have a sonar on your boat?  I've got a cheap one in my kayak.  If you don't, you can take soundings with a handline and a weight.  Just tie a knot every 5 foot or so.  Most holes are either at the tail of a riffle, or the outside bend of a river.