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Yakanoe support extension

This is tubing left over from a trampoline.
The rectangular support yoke is secured to the bed via a socketing tube bolted to the bed, and is actually supported by the drop gate. The yoke slides into the sockets and is to be secured with a hitch pin, or hairpin cotter.

The yoke itself has rollers to help ease the loading.

When not being used, the pins are pulled and the support yoke Is removed from the sockets to be stowed. The sockets remain in the bed.

To load, lift bow or stern onto the rollers and push the yakanoe up and forward into the bed. At that point, the yoke Then supports the rearmost portion of the hull.

With the rear support sorted
, I'll next work on a front end "docking socket." This will keep the front end centered and the nose down.
Lastly, a tie down system is currently in the planning.

The goal?
Secure transport
Robust construction
Simple to use
Quick to load/unload.

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Comment by David, aka, "McScruff" on September 7, 2014 at 5:18am: Leo: I'm working out a socket for the cab end. This will allow an instant, slide in positioning and will retain the yakanoe so it won't move side to side.
Think of a bicycle rack.
In the center is a large piece of carpet to slide on - no rollers.

Allen - I've got a couple of concerns:
1. 14' hull in an 8' bed
2. Less rigidity than a kayak
Canoes lack the stiffness of a fishing yak. The want to flex in the middle, called "hogging," which is bad. All of this engineering is designed to prevent that by supporting the
protruding portion of the hull.
I'm also doing everything I can to minimize the strapping needs.... 5 minute load, or less. Basically it's a bunkered truck bed, similar to a boat trailer. Once in position, two tie downs should be all thats needed. One at the cab end and a transverse strap at the gate end. The latter will also hold the hull down and tight to the bed. That's how I did my Hobie.

Brian - thanks. Neccessity and a frugal nature lead to innovation.

Comment by Allen Morgan on September 6, 2014 at 6:25pm: Scruff, when I was loading my yak into my wife's truck, I didn't use any of the stuff you have. I just slid it in, tailgate down. I hooked two straps to the receiver hitch, and threaded them up through the gap between the tailgate and the bed. Since the yak was centered, directly over the receiver, I ran one strap up the side of the yak, crossed over the top, and into a ratchet that was hooked to the tie-down on the opposite side of the yak (strap comes up the left side, over the top, and hooks to the right side of the bed). Reverse for the other side, up the right side of the yak, over and across the top to thee tie-down on the left side of the bed. Use the bottom tie-down points, to help keep the yak against the bed. This would keep the yak centered and snug to the bed. To secure the stern of the yak against the front of the bed. I hook a strap to a tie-down on the bottom of the bed, at the front, run it up and over the stern, THROUGH the ropes that attach to the carry handle, then to a ratchet on the other side of the bed. This keeps it from sliding out underneath the straps. Once it's all cinched down, my yak didn't move very much in transit.

I always load my yak backwards, as my seat folds down towards the bow. This way, I don't have to worry about the wind catching the seat and flipping it up hard, damaging the mount for the seat.

Comment by Brian Jones on September 6, 2014 at 5:57pm: Man that is a cool, good idea. I wouldnt have thought about the tramp frame.

Comment by Leo Nguyen on September 6, 2014 at 5:51pm: Great approach. However, just be mindful that to have a stable restrain at the front (near the cabin) to prevent sliding of kayak from side to side as it's already secured at the end, create higher weight bearing at the front of the kayak during transport, and of course, A quick roll system near the middle as well to prevent high scratches during loading.