Do you love big bluegill?
Slide the tube back into the foam body and secure it with a drop of glue. I recommend leaving about 3/4" of the tube sticking out of the top of the float body.
Now, take those metal flat washers, clamp em' in a vise, and use a hacksaw to cut through one side. Like thus:
That's it, all done. What? why did I make you slit the washers? Cause' now your new float is infinitely adjustable.... by sliding the O-ring off onto your line, the slit will allow you to remove and add washers as your bait/jig changes... No more cutting off your line to install a heavier or lighter float.... the float's sensitivity can be changed while leaving your setup intact.
I know what else you're thinking.... "Tony, how the heck am I supposed to thread my super limp fishing line through both beads??" Well, I suppose you could leave the bottom bead off, like most commercial slip floats do, but then you're back to having your line rubbing on the plastic tube, possibly digging another groove....
I use a bobber threader.... commonly sold in the winter to thread spring bobbers on ice rods. Run it through both beads, run your line through the loop in the end, leaving 8" or so of slack, and pull the threader back out... Voila', a threaded float.
One more thing... you know how commercial bobber stops come with a plastic bead to prevent the knot from sliding through the float? Well, why use that bead...we're trying to get away from plastic, remember? Thanks to the smaller hole in the glass beads, you will find that bead is no longer necessary:
And here's my hint of the day. When you install that stop onto your line above the slip float, anybody's float, not just this one, I always install a second stop right below the float also. This allows me to "capture" the float between stops, effectively turning it into a fixed float.... when I need a sliding type float, I just slide the lower knot down against the weight, or hook. It's out of the way, and who knows that splash of color might just act as a fish attractant!