Absolutely a current was nearby and the run was like a Pickerels!Pompton lakes where I caught the sucker  is a dammed river system.

 What a cool idea to make my own controller eye.I may shave down a wine cork as well as try it on a balsa float. 

I would be willing to buy and try your floats as well .Can you send me some info?

What is the type float, most of you use for slip bobber fishing. I am getting ready to make a trip to bass pro and dicks to spend some Christmas gift cards.

Thanks Leo, I have always wondered about using round slip floats. Seems how line runs and using bead would cause more resistance on bobber

Don't use the round ones too often. Use the pencil type, which is a long skinny looking float. You can have it lay flat after casting, and when it stands up, it's an indicator of a hookset during cold months. If you like the bobber to stand, you can also make that happen with a bit more weight on the leader for the summer months when they strike violently. On calm water, that pencil bobber will dance like a mad man on drugs.

This is slip floating so we should be talking sliders or slip floats. If your float lays flat this means your split shot is on the bottom or the bait has been intercepted on the drop. Floats laying on their side is an old style of fishing that persists today - but it is not the most sensitive way to pick up a bite of a fish like a bluegill. In the early 1900s and before, bobbers had a small brass weight that attached to the line at the base of the float. This weight balanced the float ball on the line and created a pivot point at the balsa body which allowed the float to tilt quite easily. 

You can see in this example some of the last examples of this float. The key being that brass tip and the round body of this float which would rotate on the water.

Laying any float on its side will create more resistance and will not show the initial takes of the fish. This might work in your favor if you are trying to fish around smaller fish or if you just want to relax. Laying the float on the side is also bad in any type of current or wind.

The way a slip float should work is the line slides through until it reaches depth. Once at depth you should see the float stand up and then sink down into its final position in the water. The final movement should be the last split shot cocking the float tip just above the water's surface.

I also don't suggest split shot on the leader itself because the leader should be the thin part of your fishing rig which you don't want to damage when putting the shot on.

Ah - you bring up a good point - I see information on live bait float fishing butchered consistently on tackle package instructions, in books and online nearly 100% of the time. Even a defacto source for fishing information Ken Schultz' (Field & Stream Editor) Fishing Encyclopedia has errors in its illustration because of a printer error.

I know because the modern master of American float fishing Mick Thill  personally corrected my copy's illustration and signed it. You are very good on some of your information for sure- I like the using line as your stopper and not many people know you can use the same line you are fishing with to create a stopper - in fact this is the way Thill does it because it works the best.

What you want to do is stack a few larger split shot 14 - 24 inches off the hook length (leader). The float will rest on top of this shot stack when you are casting. Beneath this float stack you want to put a fineness shot / smaller drop shot. This will create the "dropping" action at the end of your presentation. If you have your float setup correctly  this final shot will end up dipping your shot to the last colored line on your float. 

Well, even this line is a bit off because most manufacturers have no idea what the lines mean or how to set up a float so they put their lines all over the place.

Float fishing is viewed by some as simple. But those who view it as simple, may not be doing it right. For, if you setup something wrong and it doesn't work so well or it seems to work o.k., one would think that's simple. Many plastic and foam floats are sold to people who think you just put something on that floats. Fishing is anything but that.

All of float fishing is a mathematic formula to set each float up right - you need to add "x" weight of shot to the float to get it to show you takes in the best way. Not enough shot will mean you will have a lot of bouyancy and this will mean resistance to the fish taking your bait, hook and line. 

Get the setup right and you can catch 50 fish in front of you. Get it wrong and you might catch 5. If you are able to get the setup right and in the right conditions you can catch 500 with the right tactics. I have seen it, practiced it and I am still working on it. I do know when I look at a float and it just isn't right. Once you have added the correct shot and have a good setup on your line, your float will be better than any fish detector, any underwater video and any lure. After you have fished a good setup and float, you can tell when the float is just not right.

Of course, not many people have fished using proper split shot to start with - and that is where their formula for success ends. It's simple.  Lindy still makes good shot - but that is about where it ends. Their floats are ok, but they have dumbed their offerings down and now specialize in clunky bobbers, foam and plastic chunks - built for profit - not fish-catching. Lindy (old Thill) modified their balsa line and they have removed some components essential for fishing finnesse situations such as cold water, cold front and Spring fishing, post or pre-spawn conditions where fish just aren't in the eating mood. This too is a mathematic equation as to the distance their gills open and the speed, power at which the bait moves towards their mouth -note I did not say into their mouth.

It is my belief that single fish feeding never trigger a float to move at all - or seldom do on their first attempt. Fish are such subtle feeders that they can sip a single worm from above single grains of sand and their feeding allows only the lighter worm to travel up to their mouth, leaving the sand.

Since a grain of sand is heavy in their world - take another look at your split shot and your float setup. If you can figure out how to get 99.99999% of that (I am exaggerating) out under water - non-bouyant you can increase your catch 10x over. In getting more indications of takes and fewer ejections you will have many more shots at catching (and releasing) trophy fish.

I am going to blog my fishing this year to see how many fish I can catch. With some more sunlight (more each day now) and some warm spells, I will have a chance at some cold water fishing. Water is around 35 degrees by me. I will tough it out and try to get out more times between now and March than I ever have because I want to set the bar very high. As I do, I think then fishing fans will take some notice.

Of all float fishing - slip float fishing is where the worst information exists for the angler and where the most errors in their setups exist. I see many anglers near me fish the slip float in just 2' or 4' of water. Slip floats are not necessary there. A fixed float would be much more deadly and catch many more fish - faster.

One thing many don't know about float fishing is that it should be done with a longer spinning rod to cast properly. Another math formula - the longer the rod, the softer you can cast your bait using that leverage. Softer casts mean far less damage on your bait and they allow you more accuracy, better touch and control.

Switch your slip knot stops to mono - same size as on the main spinning line. Use a small bead to stop the float line at the knot. When you make your slip knot - leave a tail of about 3 - 4". Leaving these long will allow them to lie down. If you trim them tight - they will be stiff bristles and you will hear them stopping your cast. You will know when you have it right. With the mono line stop knot - use two of them so that your perfect depth stays perfect and so your knot doesn't move unless you move it one at a time.

Beautiful - I need to obtain longer rods.

Johnny, once again great info. I do have something on my mind. I hope that I can explain this, as do not write as well as you.

In slip float fishing you weight and bouyancy has to be more correct than fixed float fishing, here is my reasoning.

In slip float fishing the energy from bite in transfered thru line and stored in stop, then transfered to bead, which moves float. Lots of loss of energy. Compared to fixed float, where line is directly tie to float.

If I am way off base here, please tell me.......Thanks Dwayne

Dwayne, you're not too far off. I'm not a physicist, but I a got a few here that offered insights, and they too are avid fishermen.

Your reasoning is almost there. What's missing is this: whether it's a fixed float, bobber afixed directly to the line without any slippage, energy is still loss based on the energy transferred from the bites and the counter energy caused by the float's buoyancy.  What ever energy is left, will be transferred to the main line. This is the same for the slip float rig, as the energy is lost when the bobber stopper snags on the float. Remaining energy will be then transferred to the main line. However, both rigs must have a taut line to have to receive optimal energy transfer from the float to the rod. Otherwise, both system are 95% identical, since the slip rig designed to ensure the line sinks, pulling the bobber stopper completely to the float.

Hope I'm not way off myself somewhere.

Leo, Thanks for info. I never thought about line slipping on bobber. I guess the stretch of line, on bobber would be another factor? Once again thanks, it all makes since.

Right on Dwayne. Stretches is minimal when you have small fries biting, unless a monster decides to grab your line instead. Otherwise, minimal energy is lost, which can be neglected. However! As I recalled, additional energy also lost due to the mono lines absorbs water. Higher density due to additional weight will reduce the total energy transferred due to interference.

As Johnny mentioned, we can't feel the fishes sucking on the baits as reference to bites, since the disturbance energy is so minute. But when they start to run with it, energy vector in a diagonal direction will surely transfer directly to your line, regardless of line type.

So, sensitivity is the key. I completely drop the mono as the main line, and switch to the light braid, as it sits on top of the water, absorbing minimal to no water. What ever energy is transferred from the bobber will be fully felt in the line at the reel. I have the 2lbs mono, and compared side by side. Nothing beats the braid on slip/fixed float rig, or vertical jigging, unless you switch the mono line down to 1lb. I have yet to try that. Gurus here are using them, so, I may have to venture into that too for the experience. I'm not a surgeon type of guy with delicate hands. 1lb test my cause me more grief than pleasure with a spinner reel. Maybe a long rod fixed line type will aid me with the delicate approach to the 1lb line?

Well - you guys are blowing me out of the water with the physics - I started a craze-ouch.

Slip float will never be as sensitive as a fixed float. If you have to figure line stretch into a bite/take indication - something is really wrong. No fish will eat and stretch your line. Fish will swim away and stretch line but if you can't a bite- they are not swimming away.

Slip floats have the line come out the top of the float. Once this is the case, that loop in the line will NEVER be as tight as a 90 degree connection to a fixed float to your rod tip. This loop causes slack, catches wind and offers a brief - but actual delay in hook set as your hook set has to involve the entire float - not just the base of the float.

If you want the most sensitive, accurate and best fishing setup - [ especially for neutral to low-active fish] you want a cane pole or fixed pole no reel - no casting. A slip float can not beat a fixed float in these situations.

When you must cast, and when you must cast to water deeper than your rod... - this is the optimal time for slip floating- then you slip float. Note this- I have found one attribute that large gills have - they are perfect feeding machines. Fish don't waste energy feeding by using too much gill action - in fact it is the opposite. When in a 300 bluegill session, the larger fish often times give LESS of a bite indication than the smaller fish. True.

In terms of knot slip, I am referring to when you cast. When you cast, all the pressure of that float will slide up to the knot and the bead will crash against the stop knot in some cases. More stress is applied to your stop knot when it crashes through the guides. This is when that knot is going to tend to go deeper - higher up your line. With the two knot mono rig - the pro version, you rarely experience the slippage. I use a black Sharpie marker and I mark a 1" section of line. Thicker mark - easier to see. I check my depth   every once in a while to make sure the stop knot is still on that mark or next to it.

Now - this is for live bait and for tough bite situations. Vertical jigging a lure through a slip bobber- I would offer - why the bobber? That would just get in the way. But, talking about using a lure - that is not my thing - I prefer au natural, er at least I prefer my food offering to be au natural - I technically prefer camo.

Wow! I'm with - Johnny this stuff is bordering on the esoteric. Too complex for me. I stick with my home made slip floats and wagglers, and tie my stop knots from mono. I follow the bead and shot patterning he describes, a la the Euro fashion.

Basically, if Johnny says it, I start there.

Little blades added to jig heads, that I can handle. Anything more than that when it comes to floats, well... I can't wrap my brain around more.

LOL Everything has sciences and physics behind it. But, break it down to layman's styles, David and Johnny, make rigs and go fishing! Nothing beats personal experience.

True- you can only learn what you experience and you can only learn through experience... I would go with lots of practice - that beats experience.

Although, like any sport, if you practice with bad habits, you will only be as good as your setup.

No disrespect intended fellas, but, Lots of 'over-thinking' here... I'm afraid all this Scientific chat will have some of our Big Bluegill mates shying away from float fishing altogether. I grew up in England where Float fishing is very popular and is a tried and tested method of catching fish. First rule of float fishing... Don't use a slip float if you don't have to... I.E. Use a 'Fixed' float when fishing water that is shallower than the length of your rod. (A 12 or 14 foot rod will afford you lot's of leeway here).The most important thing in any kind of float fishing (fixed or slip) is to have the float weighted until it is at neutral buoyancy or "as close as you can get to it".

Prior to going fishing I always set  up the floats I anticipate using in a bucket or a pool if you have one. It's close enough until you get to the lake. If you have to make any slight changes, it shouldn't take very much. I think most people will find with a little experimentation and practice, floats set up this way will give very good results. There will 'always' be variations of sensitivity... and there is no perfect solution to every situation. Let's be honest, if you start considering some of the things mentioned in some of these posts, you'll spend more time playing around with your rig, than you will fishing. Take it from me guys... you can drive yourself nuts trying to think of every possible variant.  Some of the comments I have read here are sources of valuable  information, but some border on the surreal. Set up a few floats and go try them out... it's a very sensitive and 'fun' way of fishing... don't out think it.

No disrespect taken.

Sometimes when trying to explain things, outside influences really cloud the water. BUT - BUT, you are in the Slip float area and you have seen it said that slip floats shouldn't be used in shallow water. I DO get what you are saying.

Nothin on these posts will discourage me from float fishin'!! I 've had too much success with it .Even while doin' it wrong LOL!

amen John

Slip floats rock!!

I suppose I've been fishing slip floats "wrong" for a long time. I use them mostly on my 5'6" light rod and use them in shallow water alot.  I've caught hundreds of 'gills and other species this way so I'm not going to change my strategy anytime soon. There are very good tips here though.

Great call - it is o.k. to fish the way you are most comfortable and successful! I provide information so you can boost your catch - this is NOT the main goal for some, just enjoying the time out and catching a few fish is good too.  Just know that there were many bobbers I could see clear across the pond over the weekend - many never went down... The fish were biting so lightly that the majority didn't catch a single fish.

Fix up a float and balance it - a thin one- and you open up a whole new world of outdoors vs. the round stuff... also you can beat the wind.

12/2 /12 Slip floating with the Zebco 8' Slab Seeker Rod.Reel; Daiwa Spinmatic 500 T 4lb test line .Long casts from shore .Float stop set at 3.5' under the surface .Slow steady retreive produced 14 Yellow Perch and two 12" thick Crappie ! Bait 16th oz,Bucktail jig/Mealworm.

Since we're comparing setups and techniques, I thought I would share a few photos detailing what I am using to catch cold water BG. If you're not utilizing a slip float during the colder months, I think you may be missing out on some great action.

First, my rod/reel setup. It's a St. Croix panfish rod, 6', ultralight action. The reel is a Pflueger Supreme, 2500 series, spooled with 4lb test Sufix Elite. (green).

The terminal end consists of a modified styrofoam slip float, a bobberstop above AND below the float, and a size 12 horizontal ice jig....which has seen its better days.  It used to be a yellow perch pattern.The float is the first in my experimental designs, and it features ceramic guides top and bottom, and fully adjustable weights for getting the balance just right. It's crude, but works very well:

I think it's important to place a stop above, and below your float. When using it in slip float fashion, I slide the lower knot down against the jig, out of the way. But, if I get in a situation where I need a fixed depth float, such as repeated instances of fish hitting my bait on the way down, before it reaches depth, then I can slide the stop and lower bead up against the float, and capture it between the upper and lower stops...instant fixed float, without having to cut and re-tie my line. You may also notice that I don't use a plastic bead between my float and the upper stop...with the smaller hole size in the ceramic beads that I retrofit my floats with, I don't need one...plastic wears easily, and the action of your line sliding through it will cut a groove in it, pinching your line and halting the descent of your bait... ever find yourself twitching your rod to get your bait to sink when using a slip float? Could be that a groove has formed on the plastic bead inside the float itself.

The adjustable weight is accomplished by cutting a slit in some metal washers.... they are held on the float stem by a rubber o-ring.... slide the o-ring off the stem, then add or remove washers by sliding them over your line via the slit, and up or down on the float stem, securing once again with the o-ring. Again, no need to untie, or break your line. If you need more info, please see my two-part blog entitled "Souped up slip bobbers".

 My next generation of floats will be a completely new design for me. I'm starting from scratch:

Excellent info Tony. You're just showing off at this point ;-)

Fabulous work there Tony !!Brilliant washer device on this float concept of yours!

Also the quick conversion to fixed float is a great idea!

The biggest problem I face when slip floating during the winter is ice forming in my rod guides, and the float stop itself freezing up.... the guides are so small in diameter these days, that getting a frozen stop knot to travel through them during a long distance cast is sometimes problematic.

I'm experimenting with tying my own stops out of various materials, but I think what I really need  is a rod dedicated to this fishing style.....one with bigger guides, including the tip....no smaller inside diameter than a #2 pencil.

I'm considering picking up a cheap 6' ultralight, cutting the upper guides off, and replacing them with larger ones....It wouldn't be pretty, but it would give me an idea of how well it did, or didn't work.

I have had the same desire ,a rod with bigger guides.

The Frabill Ice rods have  Aluminum Oxide guides that supposedly reduce freezeup maybe you can find some spare AO guides somewhere.

Slip floats are versatile enough to catch nearly anything. You bait a hook with Lucky Charms, hang it beneath a slip float, and hang on.....non stop Leprechaun action..............

Tie on a old molar, or incisor.......trophy tooth fairies.  Yes, there's more than one.....they're real light biters though.......

My favorite bait? Carrots plucked from the Green Giant's garden.....I once hooked a melanistic unicorn on one of those.....he got off before I could reel him in though........

Sloooooowwww day..................

LOL! I'd like to catch that Leprechaun and try my hand at tricking him to reveal where that gold is!

It's been all about Slip Floating Yellow Perch from the bank for the past couple weeks .I'm not catching anything else. Today, "Dancing in my head" was the sound of Johnny Wilkins ' voice ,which I've heard by the way on his Podcast show.The voice  said " get the weight away from the hook." Well I am a bad student but after using an 1/8th oz jig under a float and only catching one dink Yellow Perch ,I decided to switch to a 16th oz Jig and use split shot 6" and 8" up the line away from the hook . Made a big difference and the action  was pretty good .To be able to catch about 15 Yellows in an hour and a half from shore this late in mid December makes be pleased!

Allen Morgans floats: http://bigbluegill.com/photo/2012floats

what kind of rod and length do most of you guys use while slip floating?

I probably use a shorter rod than most, but I use a 5 1/2' lite action spinning rod. To 

Thanks Vince, I am looking to getting a new rod, just for slip bobbers. I use a 7 ft rod right now. I was thinking about a light action 9 footer.

John on the pencil float, you use a bead on bottom of float. I read why you do that, but I have a question. Does bead fall down and hit jig head, when in water?

Yes Dwayne unless I need shot above the Jig head at which point the bead  falls to where I place the shot.

The bead protects the bottom of the float stem from splitting and cracking .The Crappie photo above shows a broken stem at the bottom end of that exacy pencil  float ,before I employed the bead .I had to cut down and smooth out the broken area before using the float again. 

Dwayne-What brand and weight/action 7' rod are you using?

Thanks John, Right now I am using an old hook setter rod, sometimes I use a Berkley lightening rod. I am looking a eagle claw or one from cabelas to use.

Dwayne- I'd like to get a UL Reel that can store 120 of four lb test .Maybe a Daiwa Crossfire reel and try it on my 8' rod I've been using for float fishing from shore .I have an old 500 T Daiwa I've been using.

hook setter rod?

That's the name of the rod, I think they were made by Shakespeare. I have had that rod since early 80's. I tend to hold on to things

The rod I want, I don't want to come off the money to buy. I want a St. Croix pan fish series. Do you know anything about the Berkley trout rods, I think they are for Berkley dough balls. Been trying to find a rod that size with exposed rod blank in handle.

My wants are simple, Dwayne. I only wish for an Eagle Claw "Spin-n-Fly" rod.

This may be the year.

U.L. rods make poor float casting rods. There is one I found that is acceptable at Bass Pro Shops - it is the Crappie Max series of rods that can be found in 10', 12', 14' and even 16'. Even this rod is too "whippy" to cast a float perfectly, but for the price ($49 - $69), I will recommend it as your first float casting rod until I have my own rod to endorse. 

I have met up with another float company aslo and might be partnering up with them which would mean I will have about 15 new floats for people to try this Spring. - Exciting news.

Looking forward to seeing those floats!