ECONOMY QUICK START RIG - VERSATILE COMBINATION SPINNING RIG (BOBBER, DROP SHOT AND SPIN FLOAT&FLY)

[Slip Sinker]

Pattern:

You’re just starting to research your equipment budget and expenses on your new endeavor on Bluegill fishing. You want a do it all tackle system to get you in the game. Realistically there is no such animal but some forms of rigging can get you close. So im publishing my equipment system that kept me happy when I was on a very slim fishing budget for years. Of course every angler is different and personal preferences vary… this is just my selection that ive tweaked and feel confident to recommend it to any one.

Rigging:

• Basis or back bone of the system is the Berkley 5-6 light action Lightning Rod. I have landed LMB over 5lbs with this setup. Even the smallest Gills seem to fight like warriors with this setup. With the braid you feel every headshake $34.00 recommended price
• 6-0 recommended braid … I really like the Spider wire or PowerPro. With the braid you only need a quick snap with your rod to set the hook. Eliminates the need for large sweeping motions or a longer rod to set the hook with stretchy mono.
• 1000 series spinning reel… currently i'm using a Shimano Sienna 1000 series reel after  continuous Lews bail spring fails. $29.00 every where
• Favorite live baits Night crawler bits, waxies, and Gulp Maggots or 1” Minnows

Presentation:

this hardware setup is ideal for fixed bobber, slip bobber or drop shotting. Last year was the first time using fixed bobber Carl’s Quill floats and have used them successfully on this setup. Drifting the wobble bobber with your favorite panfish jig (Tabbert Jellie Jig shn) also works great with this rig. When it comes to summer peak drop shotting the deep breaks is a killer method for panfish and this is ideal hardware for that presentation. Gills are biting on the surface have a fly casting bubble handy with your favorite popper or floating fly.

This system comes close to doing it all and is great starting point for the beginning gill enthusiast.

[jim cosgrove]

i could cut that cost in half.with the braid no need for a graphite rod.buy conposite just check the guides ,if they are not hardened braid will cut grooves in them.i buy cheap reels,not bad ones but last years models and closeouts etcjust check the drag.even the brand U.S. reels is made in china so paying more means little.look at the problem you had with lews.keep buying the same reels when you find one you like,if one fails you have spare handle spool drag washers etc.a spare spool for .i think spool drags are better as there is less stuff to get fouled.even many of the high end fly hooks are made in china these days.i have noticed off brand stuff being identical to name brand in qualityi have a private label flyrod i paid 125 for.another label of the exact same rod is 200.they are identical.been finding the same thing with fly hooks..my son can afford and buys high end gear.he works hard and thats his choice.does he catch more fish than me on a given day?nope.

[Slip Sinker]

Yes Jim i believe i could have significantly dropped the price if you were to just bobber fish with the setup...mono and glass just don’t have the sensitivity to be in a do it all (almost) setup. you just cant detect strikes when using light jigs or drop shot as well as the braid. the rod in the picture is nine years old and there are no grooves in any of the guides. The first SpiderWire i bought is now on my wife’s UL... I have never thrown any of it out and it has produced miles of casts. The true economy in braid is cost per year... 1 dollar and change per year line cost....that is cheap. To include dropshotting where sensitivity is key ... I believe the inclusion of graphite and braid combo is a must. You just miss many fish otherwise. I’m proving that to myself on the ice now.

I have found a series of graphite rods under 20 dollars the Diawa crossfire series... but there was a serious gap in action between the UL and ML at the time.

i didn't include in the discussion . but i also worm, dropshot, jig, spinnerbait, spoon and stick bait fish for bass and game fish with this rig

of course this is just my personal preference and suggestion... fishing has a personal feel for just about everything. like you im experienced i can detect a bite on mono where beginners are unable or find it difficult.... but you put graphite and braid in the hands of a beginner and their detecting strikes and more importantly landing fish.

[jim cosgrove]

i dont use mono on spinning rods any more either slip.found that nanofil is even better and thinner than braid but i do have several reels with spider wire on them..the lighter rods allow me to throw smaller stuff farther and rarely lose contact with the bait i just picked up a slightly used diawa jupiter.has the right guides and will double over if need be.i rarely use a bobber for gills.if they are close to the surface i am throwing a fly.if they are near the surface they are looking for bugs.either hatching or wind blown.if their in the cover i probe the edges with jigs same goes for rocks and drop offs.the modern lines have changed my fishing the rods i find too stiff and too fast even in panfish sizes.i have 2 fenwicks and a st croix i now use for small mouth fishing.a little light for bass but work a small worm or weightless senko pretty well.

[Slip Sinker]

That's right I got the Nanofil recommendation from you. Thank you by the way everyone in the family fights over that one setup... lol

[Allen Morgan]

I just respooled my UL setup with 6 lbs test Nanofil.  Now I just to get a chance to fish it....

[jim cosgrove]

make sure it doesnt slip on the spool allan.they have a knot they recommend but i tie a regular cinch knot get it real tight and i tie 1 overhand knot to lock it.it is kind of slippery stuff,have trouble with a palomar knot on such small stuff

[Slip Sinker]

the rear drag is renewed for me this year... i used to own Shimano speed spins in the eighties with rear drags... their fight star drag systems loved it back then... so i said what the heck

[jim cosgrove]

my local bait store got me on the nanofil.found out he is into antique gear,i just happen to have a bunch of that stuff.first thing i am trading for is nanofil.the stuff is ridiculous.i keep abusing it trying to find a problem with it but cant.i am using 6lb now,it looks smaller than 2 and i have yet to break it off.fought 6lb largemouth from shore in rocks weeds and sunken trees and got em in .no visible nicks in the line and the knot held.i have heard nano wont cut a fluorocarbon leader the way i have had braid do and lost 1 of the biggest bass i ever hooked.

[Slip Sinker]

do you use fluorocarbon leaders all the time?

the reason why i asked is i never thought it really made a difference overall in open water fishing... but after ice fishing with it i'm beginning to see it may hold an edge. more experimenting this summer i guess.

i agree amazing stuff... first cast i made went on someones lawn... lol... i was just reaching for the seawall.

my family fights over the rod ... so i may have to purchace a couple more setups... but do like you suggested... split the line on multiple reels

[Slip Sinker]

ive caught many jumbo bass on this setup fro 2007 - 2014

[Slip Sinker]

im actually on my third reel for this rod the quantum catalyst 10 lasted 6 years the lews 1 year on the rod but was a three year old reel and now have replaced the reel with a shimano Sienna 1000. the original braid is now on my wifes UL

[Mo Fish]

Slip,

You really broke it down man. I love your set up. I have a young cousin who is ate up with fishing and your system will be perfect for him. Oh yeah, I will have to look into the nanofil. I have used a braid/flouro system on my bass spinning rods but went back to straight flouro because I liked the feel better. Not really sensitivity but overall feel. I guess I will have to give it another shot. Great post!!!