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Eagle Claw Pencil float...needs a bead so as not to split the stem at the base after constant banging against the jig head after casting .
Presentations that are working : AFTER CASTING AND LETTING FLOAT SETTLE :1) SLOW STEADY RETRIEVE 2) POP FLOAT ONCE OR TWICE , WAIT 3) SLOW 6" SWEEP FORWARD WITH ROD TIP,LET FLOAT SETTLE AGAIN
Thills:
http://bigbluegill.com/photo/april-7-thillsf-jigs?context=album&...
Betts:
http://bigbluegill.com/photo/april21fromshorenobait11-3?context=alb...
Goldeneye:
http://bigbluegill.com/photo/slip-float-rod?context=album&album...
Here's mine for open water season 2015I just wanted to share…Continue
Started by Slip Sinker. Last reply by John Sheehan Apr 4, 2017.
http://bigbluegill.com/photo/tabbert-jig-testimonyContinue
Started by John Sheehan. Last reply by John Sheehan Dec 2, 2016.
I have fished a slip float for as long as I can remember but the other day I was fishing in about 20 feet of water and had run out of 'Bobber Stops'. I could have tied one of my own but couldn't be…Continue
Started by Rob Hilton. Last reply by Andy is OptiMystic Feb 20, 2015.
Started by Bill Purmort. Last reply by John Sheehan Feb 11, 2013.
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I have had the same desire ,a rod with bigger guides.
The Frabill Ice rods have Aluminum Oxide guides that supposedly reduce freezeup maybe you can find some spare AO guides somewhere.
The biggest problem I face when slip floating during the winter is ice forming in my rod guides, and the float stop itself freezing up.... the guides are so small in diameter these days, that getting a frozen stop knot to travel through them during a long distance cast is sometimes problematic.
I'm experimenting with tying my own stops out of various materials, but I think what I really need is a rod dedicated to this fishing style.....one with bigger guides, including the tip....no smaller inside diameter than a #2 pencil.
I'm considering picking up a cheap 6' ultralight, cutting the upper guides off, and replacing them with larger ones....It wouldn't be pretty, but it would give me an idea of how well it did, or didn't work.
Also the quick conversion to fixed float is a great idea!
Fabulous work there Tony !!Brilliant washer device on this float concept of yours!
Excellent info Tony. You're just showing off at this point ;-)
Since we're comparing setups and techniques, I thought I would share a few photos detailing what I am using to catch cold water BG. If you're not utilizing a slip float during the colder months, I think you may be missing out on some great action.
First, my rod/reel setup. It's a St. Croix panfish rod, 6', ultralight action. The reel is a Pflueger Supreme, 2500 series, spooled with 4lb test Sufix Elite. (green).
The terminal end consists of a modified styrofoam slip float, a bobberstop above AND below the float, and a size 12 horizontal ice jig....which has seen its better days. It used to be a yellow perch pattern.The float is the first in my experimental designs, and it features ceramic guides top and bottom, and fully adjustable weights for getting the balance just right. It's crude, but works very well:
I think it's important to place a stop above, and below your float. When using it in slip float fashion, I slide the lower knot down against the jig, out of the way. But, if I get in a situation where I need a fixed depth float, such as repeated instances of fish hitting my bait on the way down, before it reaches depth, then I can slide the stop and lower bead up against the float, and capture it between the upper and lower stops...instant fixed float, without having to cut and re-tie my line. You may also notice that I don't use a plastic bead between my float and the upper stop...with the smaller hole size in the ceramic beads that I retrofit my floats with, I don't need one...plastic wears easily, and the action of your line sliding through it will cut a groove in it, pinching your line and halting the descent of your bait... ever find yourself twitching your rod to get your bait to sink when using a slip float? Could be that a groove has formed on the plastic bead inside the float itself.
The adjustable weight is accomplished by cutting a slit in some metal washers.... they are held on the float stem by a rubber o-ring.... slide the o-ring off the stem, then add or remove washers by sliding them over your line via the slit, and up or down on the float stem, securing once again with the o-ring. Again, no need to untie, or break your line. If you need more info, please see my two-part blog entitled "Souped up slip bobbers".
My next generation of floats will be a completely new design for me. I'm starting from scratch:
12/2 /12 Slip floating with the Zebco 8' Slab Seeker Rod.Reel; Daiwa Spinmatic 500 T 4lb test line .Long casts from shore .Float stop set at 3.5' under the surface .Slow steady retreive produced 14 Yellow Perch and two 12" thick Crappie ! Bait 16th oz,Bucktail jig/Mealworm.
Great call - it is o.k. to fish the way you are most comfortable and successful! I provide information so you can boost your catch - this is NOT the main goal for some, just enjoying the time out and catching a few fish is good too. Just know that there were many bobbers I could see clear across the pond over the weekend - many never went down... The fish were biting so lightly that the majority didn't catch a single fish.
Fix up a float and balance it - a thin one- and you open up a whole new world of outdoors vs. the round stuff... also you can beat the wind.
I suppose I've been fishing slip floats "wrong" for a long time. I use them mostly on my 5'6" light rod and use them in shallow water alot. I've caught hundreds of 'gills and other species this way so I'm not going to change my strategy anytime soon. There are very good tips here though.
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